12/22/2023 0 Comments Sidewinder force feedback 2 driver![]() I think because of the motor being stuck on full, but could it be maybe that the PSU is gone and so it's trying to draw all the current through the USB? With the motor's plugged in the main "brain" PCB gets very hot, very quickly. With the motor's unplugged from the PCB, there is no issue with calibration, all button's work, throttle & "rudder" as well as the joystick picking up its full range of motion. So it seems to be doing the opposite of what it should. I did'nt know that there was an IR beam in the handle, which is discussed on the website you linked, Thanks again, when I break the IR beam however the rumble seem's to stop, however the motor keeps pulling in the same direction. It seems that it is only 1 of the motors that is causing the issue, perhaps confirming your thought's about the pots? What I did notice aswell though was that the pot's seem really well sealed. While, I was dissasembling, I tested by unplugging each of the component's and noticed the following. I stripped the joystick, I havent swapped the pots yet as it looks like that would require me to take apart the gimbal, but I will be doing that next. The controller is part of this stick that's the keeper Thank you so much for your reply, I really do appreciate it. Both mods are derived from Roland's work. My next iteration will be 400% the torque running much bigger motors/belt drive. The controller is part of this stick that's the keeper though. ![]() ![]() Roland van Roy did an excellent breakdown on modding this stick and why it's a keeper Ĭurrently I'm running a modded FFII that runs double the standard current by changing the resistance in the current sensing circuit and upping the power supply, though I've doubled the length of the shaft so it feels about the same but now with proper sailplane kinematics (roll axis coupled 50mm shorter than pitch) using my own gimbals and grip. For a kickass project, the MS controller running bigger motors is an upgrade, but a new brain and the stock motors/gears is a waste of time imo. MS did a great job with the brains of that stick as far as its ability to interpret DirectInput signals to command the motors and it's unlikely you're gonna beat them at their own game with your own controller. You can swap the x/y pot and see if the behavior follows the bad pot for a 'quick' test sounds like the pots are sending erroneous signals to the motors making them think they need to be in a different position than they are. Try cleaning out the pots or replacing them. ![]() I'm happy to post a video of exactly what I described above, aswell as pictures of the PCB's. I have tried my best to find an answer on google, but was unable to find anyone who has done something similar to this, so I figured if anywhere this would be the best place to ask. While I am no expert, I did take a look inside the joystick and as far as I can tell nothing looks burnt or broken, window's picks it up as it should and all the functions "work", it's just that the FFB is stuck on & pulling in one direction, so it's not dead dead, but it's such an epic joystick, I would love to save it if I can.Īs mentioned I am no electronics expert, but I've messed around with some diy button box type stuff etc, so I think I can manage, I just need some guidance. It still does the same thing as before when I pulg it in, but I was wondering with all the advancement's made with opensource direct drive wheel's, if it would'nt perhaps be possible for me save the joystick and its FFB, even if that mean's replacing the PCB's with something like an Arduino + motor driver.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |